Fascinating History and Recipes of Ketchup

Ketchup (tomato ketchup) and mustard (along with mayonnaise) are more than just everyday condiments; they carry a rich history and have become essential staples in kitchens worldwide. These sauces have evolved through centuries, bridging culinary traditions and inviting creativity with every use. For a chef, resorting to store-bought versions of these condiments is often considered an affront to the craft, as it sidesteps the opportunity to infuse dishes with homemade freshness and personal touch.

As culinary staples, both homemade ketchup and mustard—along with mayonnaise—embody the rich tapestry of flavors and traditions from around the world. They remind us that even the simplest condiments can carry the weight of history, innovation, and cultural exchange. We are thrilled to announce that these delicious products will be available at Living Ground’s natural health store, which we aim to open between April and May 2025. As you continue your gastronomic adventures, consider these sauces not just as tasty accompaniments but as gateways to a world of culinary heritage.

This week, the Living Ground team (locals and gringos) are making two staples to offer our future clients; Ketchup and Mustard (and mayonnaise but more about that in the future). These will not be the traditional sauces most have in their fridge but healthy ones that actually do help and aid our health.

Here we present a two part story of Ketchup and Mustard….

Part I Ketchup

It’s fascinating to realize that ketchup’s roots are far removed from the familiar tomato-based condiment we enjoy today. Originally, ketchup was crafted with ingredients like mushrooms, fish, and walnuts, among other savory items. This journey of ketchup is a testament to culinary innovation, and I’m excited to take you along as I explore recipes from different eras.

Diving Into the Culinary World of William Kitchiner

As a fan of savory sauces, I find the versatility of ketchup beyond its role as a standalone condiment truly inspiring. Kitchiner’s works highlight its adaptability in meals and sauces like “camp vinegar,” a flavorful blend of cayenne, soy, garlic, and walnut ketchup.

The origins of ketchup date back to a time before tomatoes were even considered. Throughout Europe, after the decline of fish sauce post-Roman era, savory sauces became crucial to the culinary scene by the late Middle Ages. Inspired by Chinese condiments, such as fish and soy sauces, English cooks began creating their own savory mixtures, leading to the first ketchup varieties.

During the 1700s, England witnessed the rise of mushroom, fish, and walnut ketchups. Back then, “ketchup” broadly referred to savory, pickled, or fermented sauces. Among these, mushroom ketchup was particularly prized for its deeply flavored brine, which became a cherished seasoning.

The introduction of tomatoes into ketchup happened in the early 19th century, with James Mease’s 1812 recipe being the first known tomato-based ketchup. This thicker, spicier version paved the way for what we now recognize. Henry J. Heinz later brought tomato ketchup to the masses, turning it into a large-scale commercial sensation in America.

We Are Making Ketchup the Old-Fashioned Way

Mushroom Ketchup Recipe

This recipe brings back the essence of traditional mushroom ketchup, rich with umami flavors with a touch of our fish ferment. By salting mushrooms overnight and blending them with spices, we create a thin, savory sauce perfect for enhancing any dish.

Ingredients:

• 16 ounces mushrooms, rinsed and finely diced
• 2 cups of Tomato Paste.
• 1/4 cup finely ground sea salt
• 1/4 cup good-quality apple cider vinegar
• 1 small yellow onion, chopped
• 1 tablespoon prepared horseradish
• 1/2 teaspoon whole allspice berries
• 1/4 teaspoon whole cloves
• 1 bunch of lemon verbena leaves and the zest of lemon (skin) for taste
• Pinch of ground cayenne pepper
  we add a slice or two of beets for color

Instructions:

1. Combine mushrooms and salt in a nonreactive bowl. Toss and massage until liquid starts to come out.
2. Cover and let sit at room temperature for about 24 hours.
3. Pour mushrooms and liquid into a blender; add vinegar, onion (we used our powder from the freeze drying), horseradish (we used our fermented), allspice, cloves, lemon verbena and lemon zest, and cayenne. Blend well until smooth.
4. Add tomato paste and blend very well. Add a few slices of beet for color.
5. Store in a jar or bottle in the fridge for several months (or can it for long term storage)

Fermented Tomato Ketchup Recipe

This fermented tomato ketchup elevates the traditional flavor with a hint of sourness and complexity, perfect for customizing with your favorite spices.

Ingredients:

• 1 cup tomato paste
• 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce or shoyu
• Splash of fish sauce
• Whole spices, to taste (such as juniper berry and lemon peel)

Instructions:

1. Mix tomato paste, Worcestershire sauce, and fish sauce.
2. Lightly toast chosen spices, then grind into a powder. Stir into the tomato mixture.
3. Place mixture in a jar, pressing to eliminate air bubbles. Ferment at room temperature, stirring daily until desired flavor is reached (2-3 days).
4. Store in the fridge for at least a month.

Spice Combinations to Elevate Your Ketchup

Unleash your creativity by experimenting with various spices, both foraged and store-bought. Some delightful combinations include juniper berry with lemon peel, or a mix of cinnamon, coriander, and mustard seed.

Part II Mustard

Imagine crafting the best-tasting homemade mustard in just five minutes! While homemade often surpasses store-bought in flavor and freshness, mustard is no exception. Despite its simplicity, we seldom think to make it ourselves—but we absolutely should.

Mustard, like ketchup, boasts a storied history that stretches back thousands of years. This pungent and flavorful condiment has traveled through time and across cultures, evolving into the diverse varieties we enjoy today. The journey of mustard begins with its seeds, which have been prized for their flavor and medicinal properties since ancient times. Mustard seeds were mentioned in Sanskrit texts from India dating back to 3000 BCE and were widely used in various cultures, including those of the Greeks and Romans. The Romans, in particular, were instrumental in spreading mustard’s popularity throughout Europe. They often combined ground mustard seeds with unfermented grape juice, or “must,” to create a tangy paste similar to the mustard we recognize today.

During the Middle Ages, monasteries in France became central hubs for mustard production. Monks cultivated and developed various recipes, making mustard a staple in European cuisine. By the 13th century, the city of Dijon in France had become a renowned center for mustard making, a status it maintains to this day. Dijon mustard, known for its smooth and strong flavor, originated from this region, blending finely ground mustard seeds with white wine or vinegar. As explorers and settlers traveled to the New World, they brought mustard with them, introducing it to American cuisine. By the 18th and 19th centuries, mustard had become a fixture in households and cooking across the globe. The development of yellow mustard, particularly in North America, marked a new chapter, popularized by brands like French’s, which debuted its yellow mustard at the 1904 World’s Fair in St. Louis.

Mustard is one of the few condiments you can still find in stores with decent ingredients. However, some brands sneak in additives like artificial “natural flavor” and tartaric acid. Be cautious of “Honey” Mustard varieties too, as many are loaded with high fructose corn syrup and lack real honey. For those committed to eating only wholesome, real ingredients, homemade mustard is an excellent choice. It’s easier to make than you might think—and the taste is unparalleled!

I discovered the delightful variety of mustard seeds: white, brown, and black. White mustard seeds, also known as yellow, are mild and form the base for typical American yellow mustard, often enhanced with turmeric for that cheerful color and health benefits. Brown mustard seeds offer a bolder flavor, while black seeds bring a spicy edge, often found in flavorful Indian cuisines and spicy mustards like Dijon. By soaking any of these seeds in water overnight, you can mellow their intense flavors before grinding them. What’s your flavor preference? If you enjoy robust, complex mustard, try mixing yellow, brown, and a touch of black seeds—it’s my go-to combination.

Today, mustard’s versatility is celebrated worldwide. It comes in various forms, from the mild yellow mustard popular on hot dogs and sandwiches to the bold and spicy brown and Dijon varieties used in gourmet cooking. Mustard seeds continue to be a vital ingredient in a myriad of dishes, offering flavor complexity and a touch of heat. The history of mustard underscores its evolution from ancient medicinal use to a culinary essential, reflecting the creativity and adaptability of cuisines through the ages. As we enjoy homemade mustard and experiment with new recipes, we celebrate a legacy that has flavored the world for millennia.

Here’s our recipe. Even ground seeds add a wonderful texture, offering a creamy yet slightly coarse finish that I find delightful!

This recipe yields 2 cups (16 ounces) of mustard, perfect for two 8-ounce mason jars or one 16-ounce container.

Ingredients:

• ½ cup brown mustard seeds
• ½ cup yellow mustard powder
• ½ cup water
• ½ cup white wine vinegar
• 1½ teaspoons salt
• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric

Instructions:

1. Soak mustard seeds for a minimum of 2 hours or overnight to achieve a finer texture and mellow the intensity. Feel free to add some black mustard seeds if desired.
2. Drain and grind the mustard seeds using a coffee grinder, food processor, mortar and pestle, or my favorite—a blender.
3. Mix the soaked brown and yellow seeds with water, allowing them to sit for 10 minutes to unlock their full flavor potential.
4. Add vinegar, salt, and turmeric, blending until smooth.

Notes:

• Love honey mustard? Simply add honey to taste.
• Prefer a spicy kick? Incorporate some grated horseradish or chopped peppers when grinding the seeds.

I hope this exploration into the rich world of ketchup and mustard. inspires you to try these recipes and discover exciting new flavors. I eagerly await share these two recipes at Living Ground.